Basque quality at a US pace makes Piperade a lunchtime success

The Wall Street Journal has praised Basque chef Gerard Hirigoyen (Bayonne) for knowing how to prepare appealing business lunches at a pace befitting the cosmo-rhythm of San Francisco.

When his restaurant, Piperade, opened in 2002, lunchtime was a "pretty soft" affair according to Hirigoyen. But he has managed to turn that around, the WSJ reveals, with some clever fine-tuning.

Details, says the Journal, that include "putting a party of two at a four-person table when space allows."

Another is the name of the chicken sandwich "Mr Williams", a tribute to the founder of Williams-Sonoma Inc, one of the area's most important firms along with Levi-Strauss.

Aside from serving up good food, Mr Hirigoyen has successfully tapped into a need to up the pace at lunchtime. "The energy is different," he observes. His clients want "good food" but "a little faster".

The WSJ cites the Basque chef's "piquillo peppers stuffed with goat's cheese, calamari with pear and lemon confit and roasted lamb served three ways," as among his most popular dishes. It also adds that they are "traditionally heavy dishes" which Hirigoyen deliberately makes more digestible.

Another conscientious move aimed at a predominantly business clientele looking for something a little lighter on the stomach.

The chef

Gerald Hirigoyen arrived in California in 1980 armed with nothing but a suitcase, no word of English, and his own American dream: to become a chef.

Nowadays he is one of the most renowned chefs of San Francisco, owns a Basque restaurant and a tapas bar and has authored three cookbooks, 'Bistro', 'The Basque Kitchen' and recently 'Pintxos'.

Born in the Basque town of Bayonne, Gerald did his apprenticeship in a bakery in his hometown of Biarritz and then moved to Paris, where he worked in a pastry shop. He was lucky to live right above a Basque restaurant owned by Peio Pagueguy who he "spent many evenings talking to and watching."

Once in California, he opened a French bistro called Fringale together with a partner. Then in 2002, Gerald, with his wife Cameron, finally achieved his dream when he bought out his partner in Fringale and opened Piperade, the only Basque restaurant in San Francisco followed less than two years later by Bocadillos, a lively tapas and wine bar.

Since then, as well as developing a loyal clientele and winning a reputation in San Francisco, Gerald Hirigoyen has won recognition on several occasions including being named one of 'Food & Wine Magazine''s "Best New Chefs in America" as well as twice "Best Chef of the Bay Area" by 'San Francisco Magazine'.